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明官服"褒衣博袖"的节俭营造

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明朝官员礼服和制服以"四幅制"为结构框架,呈现出"褒衣博袖"的形制特征,这种特征是明人继承传统袖制并创立缯耳制的结果.文章以实物与文献相结合重实物的"二重考据"研究方法,对明官服"褒衣"和"博袖"结构冲突的技术问题进行复原.结果表明,明官服通过"取舍袖耳"的术规完成了褒衣博袖的官服营造,使其既满足礼制纲常的约束又达到了节俭的 目的.明官服"整幅寡割"的造物逻辑深谙俭以养德的礼教修持.
The frugal construction of the"wide robe and large sleeves"in Ming dynasty official clothing
The full dress and uniforms of Ming dynasty officials take"four piece system"as the structural framework,presenting the shape characteristics of"Baoyi Boxiu".The research method of"double evidence"was based on the combination of physical object and literature to restore the technical problemes of the structural conflict between the"Baoyi"and"Boxiu"of Ming offical uni-forms.The results show that the official attire of Ming dynasty is created through the technique of"choosing sleeves and ears",which not only satisfied the constraints of ritual rules but also achieved the goal of frugality,proving that the creation logic of"whole piece and few cuts"in official attire is well applied in the practice of frugality to cultivate virtue.

Ming official robethe earconstruction technologymaximizing utilization and mini-mizing croppingthrift

刘畅

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北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029

明官服 缯耳 营造技术 整幅寡割 节俭

国家社会科学基金艺术学青年项目北京市教委社会科学研究一般项目

22CG183SM202410012006

2024

纺织高校基础科学学报
西安工程大学 全国纺织教育学会

纺织高校基础科学学报

CSTPCD
影响因子:0.339
ISSN:1006-8341
年,卷(期):2024.37(2)
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