首页|新疆和田艾德莱斯工艺与传承再研究

新疆和田艾德莱斯工艺与传承再研究

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新疆和田艾德莱斯工艺研究多带有以今观古的辉格解释操作,常将复制和仿制混为一谈,导致操作工艺现代化和传统工艺科学表征的缺席,不可避免地出现传承危机.为此,本文运用文献查阅、绘图分析、实地考察等研究方法,对新疆和田艾德莱斯的制作工序、原理、技法进行了系统概括,并对其现状与困境进行了分析.研究认为:新疆和田艾德莱斯的缫丝工艺对中国古代传统缫车进行改进与简化,更体现了维吾尔族艾德莱斯制作工具的一物多用.其核心工艺是扎染经线,形成图案.其织物组织图是六枚变则经面缎纹,可突显经线显花的光泽.其织机是具有民族特色的经轴与织轴分离的结构组织,织机六片综采用顺穿法,踏板操作与现代小样织机的顺穿法操作正好相反,可以实现织物组织图的表征,纹板图中的经组织点表示踏下踏板,借此不仅可以织造比较精细的织物,还可以实现机械化.重视艾德莱斯工艺传承人培养,对艾德莱斯工艺与科技结合式创新、跨界融合等,是促进艾德莱斯工艺传承和发展的有效手段.
Restudy of Aidelaisi technology and heritage
The study of Hetian Aidelaisi crafts in Xinjiang Uygur is mostly operated with the Wig interpretation of viewing,and copying and imitation are often confused,leading to the modernization of the operational crafts and the absence of scientific representations of the traditional crafts,and inevitably the crisis of inheritance.Through literature review,video collection and drawing points,field investigation and other research methods,this paper systematically summarizes the produc-tion process,principles and techniques of Aidelaisi,in order to make some contributions to the inheritance and protection of this intangible cultural heritage.Analysis indicate that Aidelaisi silk woven with mulberry silk as raw material,uses the traditional reeling method to clarify the thread of the cocoon silk,and makes the single cocoon silk has enough strength to do Aidelaisi silk meridian and latitude.The dyes of Aidelaisi silk are taken from the roots,stems,leaves,flowers and fruit shells of plants and minerals.According to the requirements of the pattern,tie the warp thread with corn skin on the silk thread for tie-dye.Aidelaisi silk is woven using a traditional wood plain loom,The structure of the loom has some similarities with the ordinary folk loom in Xinjiang,just a more pedal brown.The loom fuselage frame is mainly built as a buckle,six brown and a scroll,a shuttle and six pedals.Reed and brown are made of bamboo and steel sheet respectively.

AidelaisiXinjiang Uygurwarp tie dyeingweaving techniques

哈力米热·依明、李强、夏克尔·赛塔尔

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新疆大学纺织与服装学院,新疆乌鲁木齐 830047

武汉纺织大学期刊社/服装学院,湖北武汉 430073

艾德莱斯 新疆维吾尔族 扎经染色 织造技艺

教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金

21YJA760032

2024

纺织高校基础科学学报
西安工程大学 全国纺织教育学会

纺织高校基础科学学报

CSTPCD
影响因子:0.339
ISSN:1006-8341
年,卷(期):2024.37(2)
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