Dye identification of four Tang dynasty silk fabrics in the collection
In order to deeply explore the costume colors of the Tang dynasty and the social cultural connotations behind them,and to provide a more scientific basis for the study of costume colors and related systems of the Tang dynasty.In this paper,the types,dyeing processes and colors of natural dyes in the Tang dynasty were sorted out based on ancient literature,and the dyes of four silk fabrics in the collection of China Silk Museum were identified and analyzed by high perform-ance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry.The genus madder(Rubia),cork tree(Phello-dendron spp),Barberry(Berberis spp),Indigo,Tannin-based and insect dyes were successfully identified.Armenian cochineal(Porphyrophora hamelii)was not recorded in the Tang dynasty literature,but appeared on the silk fabrics of the Tang dynasty,which enriched the types of dyes of the period,reflecting the economic and cultural exchanges between China,Central and West Asia in the Tang dynasty.The results provide a reference for further study of the color character-istics of silk fabrics in the Tang dynasty.
silk fabrics of Tang dynastynatural dyedye identificationdress colorHPLC-MS
国家科技期刊平台
NSTL
万方数据
