In order to further understand the knitting principle of whole garments and develop more styles with different shapes, this work investigated the conversion principles from 3-D style to 2-D patterns considering the theory, mathematical model and conversion process. Conversion methods of different types of garments from 3-D style to 2-D patterns were considered based on double-layer structure, three-layer structure and four-layer structure. Taking five typical styles as examples, the 2-D pattern design and knitting practice were carried out using the SDS-ONE APEX3 system and a four-bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the front and back pieces of the 2-D patterns of the garments with double-layer structure are determined by the side seam and the centerline respectively depending on whether the width of the front and back pieces of 3-D style are equal or not. The 2-D pattern of the garments with three-layer structure are to be determined by dividing in the back centerline or armholes, or unfolding on the side seam and placket based on whether the 3-D style contains sleeves. The connecting position of the inner and outer layers of the garments with the four-layer structure should be located at the collar, waist and other special parts.
关键词
全成形针织服装/三维款式/二维样板/转化方法/编织工艺
Key words
fully formed garment/3-D style/2-D pattern/conversion method/knitting process