首页|《宫乐图》中仕女服饰的数字化复原

《宫乐图》中仕女服饰的数字化复原

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通过数字化手段对古代画作中的人物服饰进行重现可达到简化传统服饰复原流程、节约修复成本等目的.以《宫乐图》中端茶仕女为例探索古代服饰的数字化复原方法论.首先,借助数字化服装制图技术对原画受损部分进行修复,并基于文史资料及服装美学原理,对仕女服款式、结构等信息进行分析和推断;而后,通过数字化制板技术绘制服装样板,运用三维虚拟现实技术对服饰进行数字化还原展示;最后,结合层次分析法及模糊综合评价法构建三层级的评价体系对复原效果进行验证.结果表明,复原后的仕女服不论从服装造型、结构、面料及工艺的还原程度,还是服饰的整体复原效果,其好评占比均达到40%以上,说明本文提出的以古代画作为参考进行的古代服饰数字化复原方法可行,效果满意.
Digital restoration of women's costumes depicted in ancient painting of "A Palace Concert"
Objective The traditional process of restoring ancient costumes relies on physical artifacts as a basis,which often leads to cumbersome and time-consuming restoration procedures due to factors such as the condition of cultural relics,restoration processes,and the experience of researchers.The restoration of ancient costumes necessitates broader exploration and the quest for a more scientific methodology to serve as guidance.Method Taking the tea-serving maiden in the ancient painting of"A Palace Concert"as the subject,a digital approach was adopted to restore the Tang Dynasty women's costumes depicted in the painting.This approach involved painting restoration using digital techniques,inferencing costume styles,sizes and other information through the use of literature and aesthetic principles,sample production using digital pattern-making tools,and virtual costume creation and display using three-dimensional virtual-reality technology.The evaluation system was constructed using the Analytic Hierarchy Process(AHP)and consists of four primary criteria and eleven secondary criteria.The weights of each criterion were calculated,and the restoration results were evaluated using the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method.Result A comprehensive evaluation system and criteria for the restoration of women's costumes depicted in the Painting"A Palace Concert"were constructed,including four primary criteria,which were"Overall Styling","Costume Construction","Fabric Selection",and"Craftsmanship",as well as eleven secondary criteria to assess the effectiveness of costume restoration.Using the expert assessment method,weights were obtained for both the primary and secondary criteria.The primary criteria assigned 0.243 3 weight to"Overall Styling",0.378 9 to"Costume Construction",0.162 3 to"Fabric Selection",and 0.188 0 to"Craftsmanship",among which,"Costume Construction"had the highest weight.The secondary criteria assigned"Costume Bodice"and"Costume Style"with relatively high weights,with values of 0.59 and 0.488 7,respectively.Their comprehensive weights were 0.143 5 and 0.185 2 respectively,indicating that the restoration effectiveness of the costume bodice and style silhouette,which are the main visual perception elements,significantly influence the final restoration outcome of the women's costumes.The virtual restoration results were evaluated for the secondary criteria,and the evaluation degrees of"Very Good","Good","Fair","Poor",and"Very Poor"were obtained for corresponding elements.The evaluation results for the secondary criteria were then integrated and statistically analyzed.It can be observed that all secondary criteria received evaluation degrees of"Very Good"greater than 35%,and there were seven elements"Costume Silhouette","Costume Sleeves","Costume Collar","Fabric Material","Fabric Color","Fabric Pattern"and"Piece Seaming"with evaluation degrees greater than 40%.This indicates that the restoration effectiveness for all secondary criteria was rated as"Very Good".Furthermore,the evaluation was recalculated with consideration of weights for the primary indicators and overall restoration effectiveness.All primary indicators were rated as"Very Good",with the breakdown as follows:"Overall Styling"at 40.25%,"Costume Construction"at 41.85%,"Fabric Selection"at 47.68%,and"Craftsmanship"at 42.17%.The final evaluation result for the"Overall Restoration Outcome"was categorized as"Very Good"at 41.32%.These data demonstrated that the restoration of the primary criteria and the overall effect of the Qi-ehest Ruqun costume for the tea-serving maiden in the Painting of"A Palace Concert"were highly successful.Conclusion By using digital techniques for restoration and incorporating literature and other images,combined with the utilization of CLO 3D software,it is possible to achieve digital restoration of ancient women's costumes depicted in the Painting of"A Palace Concert"and provide a viable methodology for exploring the digital restoration of ancient costumes.In terms of evaluation,the"Overall Styling","Costume Construction","Fabric Selection",and"Craftsmanship"have varying degrees of impact on the authenticity of virtual costume restoration based on the painting.Among them,the"Costume Bodice"and"Costume Style"have a relatively higher influence,indicating that the overall visual presentation is the most critical factor influencing the effectiveness of costume digital restoration.The final restoration results received evaluations of"Very Good"and"Good,"with a combined percentage of over 70%,demonstrating that digital restoration based on ancient paintings can effectively simulate and restore ancient costumes with good visual effects and feasibility.

painting of "A Palace Concert"women's costumedigital restorationvirtual displaymultilevel fuzzy comprehensive evaluation

黄智威、石雅杰、陆冯、李青、薛哲彬

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苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州 215021

宫乐图 仕女服饰 数字化复原 虚拟展示 多层次模糊综合评价

教育部人文社科青年基金项目江苏省丝绸工程重点实验室开放课题

22YJC760111KJS2057

2024

纺织学报
中国纺织工程学会

纺织学报

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.699
ISSN:0253-9721
年,卷(期):2024.45(6)