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凹凸点阵双面织物的结构与湿热管理评价

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为探究凹凸点阵双面针织物连接点数量、结构与分布对织物单向导湿能力的影响,以差动毛细效应为原理,选用了 55.5 dtex(24 f)普通涤纶与 93.3 dtex(384 f)超细涤纶为原料,设计了 4 种不同工艺的凹凸点阵双面织物,其中在工艺 1 和工艺 2 的成圈连接点处将 55.5 dtex(24 f)涤纶替换为 33.3 dtex(12 f)涤纶,共得到 6 款具有湿热管理功能的织物.对织物透湿性、透气率、液态水分管理能力、滴水扩散面积、蒸发速率、保温率等进行测试与分析.结果表明:当双面织物组织结构中的连接点较少且分布均匀时,织物滴水扩散面积变化较大,其单向导湿性能较好;当以连续集圈作为连接点时,圈柱纱段长、纱线堆积会导致织物透湿性、透气性下降;33.3 dtex(12 f)涤纶使织物网眼明显,有利于提高织物的透湿性、透气性及速干性;较薄的织物保温率较低,有利于散热.最后利用灰色关联度分析法对织物进行综合评价,在单位循环下,当织物轻薄且组织以集圈为主要连接点较少时,具有较好的湿热管理能力.
Structure and moisture/thermal management evaluation of concave-convex lattice knitted fabrics
Objective At present,light exercise is important for people's health.However,the conventional cooling and heating system has consumed significant amounts of energy to ensure optimal human body temperature during the light exercise.Sweat evaporation is an effective method for heat dissipation to maintain human thermal balance.The conventional textiles such as cotton fabric inevitably retain excessive sweat at the interface due to the intrinsic hydrophilicity,leading to wet and cool feeling.Therefore,fabrics with moisture and heat management capability is expected to transport liquid directionally,maintaining the skin dryness and finally achieving energy conservation and wearing comfort.Method When a density difference exists on both sides of a single fabric,additional pressure difference will be generated to make water transfer spontaneously,according to the principle of differential capillary effect.Based on this principle,two polyester yarns(55.5 dtex(24 f)and 93.3 dtex(384 f))were selected.Four concave-convex lattice fabrics were created with variations in structure,number,and distribution of connecting points,denoted as process A,B,C and D.In process A and B,the 55.5 dtex(24 f)polyester yarn was replaced by the 33.3 dtex(12 f)polyester yarn at the connecting coil to form obvious mesh,named as A2 and B4,respectively.In order to explore the influence of different coil structures on the moisture and heat management performance of fabric,6 different fabrics A1,A2,B3,B4,C5 and D6 with the capability of moisture and heat management were prepared.Results Fabrics in process A are configured with looping connecting coil and single tuck connecting coil,while process B incorporates three types of connecting coils:looping,single tuck,and double tuck coils.In contrast,process C only utilizes single tuck as the connecting coil,and process D incorporates looping connecting coil.Following the addition of 33.3 dtex(12 f)polyester yarn,fabrics A2 and B4 exhibited a noticeable mesh formation compared to A1 and B3.In order to assess the performance of the fabrics,various tests were conducted,including evaluation of moisture permeability,moisture management,droplet spreading,evaporation rate,and insulation rate.Analysis of the moisture permeability data revealed that fabric A1 outperformed the others.The presence of tuck connecting coils in processes B and C,spanning multiple horizontal rows,led to moisture condensation on the yarn/fiber and subsequent decrease in moisture permeability.Notably,the air permeability was primarily influenced by the fabric structure,with the introduction of 33.3 dtex(12 f)polyester yarn enhancing air permeability due to the formation of mesh.The weight of the fabrics demonstrated a positive correlation with unidirectional moisture transport capability.Thicker fabric D6 facilitated moisture transport,while the liquid easily penetrated soft fabrics.Fabric C5,featuring single tuck connection coil,displayed good unidirectional moisture transport and a large area change of droplet spreading due to the formation of transport channels.The relationship between evaporation and thermal insulation indicated a negative correlation,as faster liquid evaporation led to increased heat dissipation and decreased thermal insulation rate.The fabrics with a high proportion of microfibers,exhibited slow evaporation due to water absorption.Additionally,the mesh structure,provided improved evaporation efficiency.Overall,the connecting coils and fabric structure coordinately influenced the performance of fabric.As demonstrated by the correlation degree rankings,the comprehensive evaluation of the designed fabrics through grey relational analysis revealed that the tuck connection points in the process structure significantly influenced the fabric's heat and humidity management capabilities.Conclusion Overall,the experiments show that the inner side of garment woven with 55.5 dtex(24 f)polyester yarn and the outer side knitted with 93.3 dtex(384 f)microfiber polyester achieved excellent unidirectional water transfer ab ability.It has been identified that the materials and structure jointly affected the comprehensive performance.The involvement of hydrophilic microfibre was found to reduce the moisture permeability and water evaporation rate.The connection coil of tuck was beneficial to unidirectional moisture transport but adverse to permeability.To the contrary,the structure of mesh was conducive to air permeability but poor in unidirectional water transport capability.In the final comprehensive evaluation,it demonstrated that single performance can not determine the overall moisture and heat management ability of the fabrics.The six fabrics used in this research are easy to produce without physical and chemical modification,which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of light sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability,environmental protection and durability.

one-way water transportdouble jerseythermal and moisture comfortpolyester microfibergrey relational analysis

葛美彤、董智佳、丛洪莲、丁玉琴

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江南大学 针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏 无锡 214122

单向导湿 双面针织物 热湿舒适 超细纤维涤纶 灰色关联度分析

国家自然科学基金项目江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目

61902150KYCX24-2557

2024

纺织学报
中国纺织工程学会

纺织学报

CSTPCD北大核心
影响因子:0.699
ISSN:0253-9721
年,卷(期):2024.45(7)