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马面裙的定义与结构特征来源探析

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马面裙是中国传统服饰中较为经典的款式之一.为了从结构特征的角度解决马面裙来源不明晰、定义冗杂的问题,采用词频分析法整理归纳马面裙的3个结构特征,同时通过比例分析法对宋代褶裥裙及二片式旋裙的形制进行分析,并结合宋代相关裙型形制特点,重新定义马面裙的形制特征.研究表明,马面裙源于宋代,其形制为前后有马面状搭叠裙门的二片式结构,侧面有多个褶裥的中式裙装.
Analysis of the Definition and Structural Feature Source of the Horse-Face Skirt
The horse-face skirt was one of the classic styles of traditional Chinese clothing.In order to solve the problem of unclear sources and redundant definitions of horse-face skirt from the perspective of structural characteristics,three struc-tural characteristics of horse-face skirt were summarized from the definition of horse-face skirt by scholars by word frequency analysis.Then a proportional analysis method was used to analyze the form of Song Dynasty pleated skirts and two-piece rotating skirts.Combined with the characteristic form of related skirts in Song Dynasty,the structural features of the horse-faced skirt were redefined.The study shows that the horse-face skirt originated in Song Dynasty,with a two-piece structure featuring horse-face-shaped overlapping front and back skirt panels,as well as multiple pleats on the side.

horse-face skirtstructural featuresSong Dynastypleated skirttwo-piece spiral skirt

杨子田、雷梦洁、王诗琪

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东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海 200051

马面裙 结构特点 宋代 褶裥裙 二片式旋裙

2024

服装学报
江南大学

服装学报

北大核心
影响因子:0.239
ISSN:2096-1928
年,卷(期):2024.9(4)