首页|粤剧变装中的"道袍变和尚袍"样本结构探析

粤剧变装中的"道袍变和尚袍"样本结构探析

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"道袍变和尚袍"是20世纪80年代出现的一种粤剧变装新形式.对广州粤剧院所藏"道袍变和尚袍"样本主体结构与衬里结构进行研究,采用数据采集、测绘和平面结构复原等手段,分析"道袍变和尚袍"的结构原理以及西式剪裁的必要性,总结样本结构改良后的优点.研究表明:"道袍变和尚袍"在整体结构上延续了粤剧戏服的传统"十"字型剪裁方法,为实现变装功能加入了"折叠衣"和"翻折袖"两种结构;分体式裁剪有利于两种结构在"道袍变和尚袍"上的组合使用;道袍主体结构采用西式裁剪,以增加整件戏服结构的美观性、隐秘性以及变装操作的便利性.
Structural Analysis of the Sample of"Taoist Robe Transform Monk's Robe"in Cantonese Opera Reversible Transformation Costume
The"Taoist robe transform monk's robe"is a new form of Cantonese opera disguise that appeared in the 1980s.By studying the main structure and lining structure of the sample"Taoist robe transform monk's robe"in the collection of Guangzhou Cantonese Opera House,and adopting the means of data collection,mapping and planar structural restoration,we analyze the structural principle of the"Taoist robe transform monk's robe"and the necessity of the Western style cutting,and summarize the advantages of the improved structure.The study shows that the overall structure of the"Taoist robe transform monk's robe"continues the traditional"十"shape cutting method of Cantonese opera costumes,and adds the"fold down dress"and the"turn down sleeve"to realize the function of quick costume-change.The split cutting is conducive to the combined use of the two structures in the"Taoist robe transform monk's robe".The main structure of the robe adopts the Western style of cutting,so as to increase the aesthetics of the structure of the whole piece of costume,the secrecy,and the convenience of the operation of quick costume-change.

Cantonese opera reversible transformation costumequick costume-changeclothing constructionstructural restoration

谢雨成、丁晓松、李旰鹏、刘莉

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北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029

粤剧变装 快速换装 服装结构 结构复原

2024

服装学报
江南大学

服装学报

北大核心
影响因子:0.239
ISSN:2096-1928
年,卷(期):2024.9(4)