摘要
酚酸类化合物不仅具有药理作用,还具有抗氧化、抗炎、抑菌、美白、抗糖化、收敛性等护肤功效,其在化妆品领域的应用研究逐步开展.该文分别介绍了植物提取法和生物合成法制备酚酸类化合物作为化妆品原料,全面总结了这两种方法的优缺点;综述了酚酸类化合物作为一种天然化合物,通过清除自由基、抑制炎症反应、抑菌、抑制酪氨酸酶活性、加速分解肌肤中的晚期糖化终末产物等途径起到的美白淡斑、抗衰老、抗炎、屏障修护等多重护肤功效;阐述了目前酚酸类化合物在化妆品行业中的应用现状以及安全性问题,提出了酚酸类化合物生物利用度低、水溶性低等实际应用问题,采用生物基纳米颗粒负载酚酸类化合物可使部分实际应用问题得到改善.
Abstract
The application of phenolic acids in cosmetics has been gradually carried out with their pharmacological,antioxidant,anti-inflammatory,antibacterial,whitening,anti-saccharification,astringent and other skin care effects.Herein,the two methods of plant extraction and biosynthesis for preparation of phenolic acids towards cosmetic application was introduced,with their advantages and disadvantages summarized.The multiple skin care effects of natural phenolic acids,such as whitening,spot lightening,anti-aging,anti-inflammation and barrier repair through free radical scavenge,inflammation inhibition,antisepsis,tyrosinase activity inhibition and decomposition acceleration of advanced glycation end products in skin,were systematically described.The current application status and safety issues of phenolic acids in cosmetics industry were discussed,while practical application problems such as low bioavailability and low water solubility of phenolic acids were raised,with suggested solution like loading phenolic acids with bio-based nanoparticles presented.
NETL
NSTL
维普
万方数据