毛纺科技2024,Vol.52Issue(1) :6-9.DOI:10.19333/j.mfkj.20230506704

低含毛泡泡四面弹多组分织物的设计和开发

Design and development of bubble four-sided elastic multi-component fabric with low wool content

王蓉 胡志良 姜圆圆 吴曼
毛纺科技2024,Vol.52Issue(1) :6-9.DOI:10.19333/j.mfkj.20230506704

低含毛泡泡四面弹多组分织物的设计和开发

Design and development of bubble four-sided elastic multi-component fabric with low wool content

王蓉 1胡志良 1姜圆圆 1吴曼1
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作者信息

  • 1. 常州丁丁纺织科技有限公司,江苏常州 213168;常州市新型色织面料研发工程技术研究中心,江苏常州 213168
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摘要

为了开发新型毛型面料,设计了一种含涤纶、羊毛、棉、粘胶、氨纶5种成分的低含毛泡泡四面弹织物.织物组织结构为双层,表层经纱为14 texx2羊毛股线,表层纬纱为14.7 texx2长绒棉股线,里层经、纬纱线均采用涤纶/粘胶14.7 texx2和4.4 tex氨纶股线的混纺弹力包覆纱.通过表、里层合理设计和原料使用,面料具有表层毛型感强、里层贴身舒适等特点,面料厚实,保暖性好.整经采用低速工艺,速度为同规格棉纱的85%~90%;穿综采用分区穿综法,表层非弹力经纱穿在综框前区,里层弹力经纱穿在综框后区.上机织造使用双轴织造,早开口、低后梁、喷气大压力等工艺措施,保障了织造的顺利进行,同时采用混纬工艺,避免色档,保证了产品质量.

Abstract

In order to develop a new type of wool fabric,a kind of bubble four-sided elastic fabric with low wool content containing polyester,wool,cotton,viscose and spandex was designed.The fabric structure is double layer,the surface warp yarn is 14 tex × 2 wool yarn,the surface weft yarn is 14.7 texx2 long staple cotton yarn,the inner warp and weft yarns are made of polyester/viscose 14.7 tex×2+4.4 tex spandex yarn.Through the reasonable design of the surface and inner layer and the use of raw materials,the fabric has the characteristics of strong woolliness,close comfort of the inner layer,thick fabric and good warmth.The warping process is low speed,and the speed is 85%-90%of the cotton yarn of the same specification.Divided draw was used in drafting,the surface non-elastic yarn is worn in the front of the heddle frame and the inner elastic yarn is worn in the back of the heddle frame.Biaxial weaving was used in weaving,early opening,low back beam,air pressure and other technological measures to ensure the smooth progress of weaving.At the same time,weft mixing process is adopted to avoid color stall and ensure product quality.

关键词

泡泡四面弹织物/双层结构/羊毛/长绒棉

Key words

bubble four-sided elastic fabric/double layer structure/wool/long-staple cotton

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出版年

2024
毛纺科技
中国纺织信息中心 北京毛纺织科学研究所

毛纺科技

北大核心
影响因子:0.3
ISSN:1003-1456
参考文献量10
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