首页|中国传统青色与绿色植物染服饰色彩辨析

中国传统青色与绿色植物染服饰色彩辨析

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青绿色系是中国传统服饰色彩中的重要组成部分,其中青色位于传统五正色首位.针对传统服饰色彩中青色与绿色的色彩边界模糊,常常统称为青绿色系的问题,文章首先测量故宫博物院官网上以青绿色命名的清代纺织品的色度值,其次采用传统单染、复染以及与黄色系、红色系植物染料套染等染色技法,对染色后织物的色度值进行测量,比较图片数据与染色实验结果得出我国传统青、绿色系所表示的色度值范围.结果表明:绿色多指出现在第2、3象限的黄绿色,围绕在a轴负值上下,色度值大致范围为a4值≤-10,b*值为-10~50;青色色度值为a*值在-10~10之间,b*值在-70~10范围内,其中L*值较小的一类色彩(-10≤a*、b*值≤10),如石青色、元青色、玄青色等,为狭义的青色.绿色与青色在第3象限有少量交叉.
Color discrimination and analysis of traditional Chinese cyan and green plant dyes
The turquoise color is a key component in the traditional Chinese colors,especially cyan is at the top of Chinese traditional five colors.In view of the fuzzy color boundary between cyan and green in traditional clothing colors,which are often collectively referred to as cyan color system,at first the chromaticity values of Qing dynasty textiles were measured,which refer to the turquoise color on the official website of the Palace Museum.Then,the chromaticity values of the dyed fabrics by traditional dyeing techniques were obtained.The traditional dyeing methods include repeatedly dyeing and over-dyeing at the bottom of yellow and red plant dyes.In order to learn the range of chromaticity values indicating by traditional cyan and green color,the photographic data with the results of the dyeing experiments were compared.The results show that the"green"is mostly refer to yellow-green colors in the second and third quadrants of color wheel,which surround the a-axis up and down,with chromaticity values in the approximate range of a*≤-10 and b*from-10-50.The a value of the cyan color is in the range of-10-10 and the b*value is from-70-10,with a lower class of L*value(-10≤ a*、b*≤10),such as Shi-cyan,Yuan-cyan,Xuan-cyan,etc.,which is the cyan color in the narrower sense.There are some crossovers between green and cyan colors in the third quadrant of color wheel.

plant dyeingcyan colorgreen colorhue analysisdyeing experiment

郭鹏丽、徐伟津、缪斌斌、王越平

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北京服装学院材料设计与工程学院,北京 100029

植物染色 青色系 绿色系 色相分析 染色实验

北京市属高等学校高水平教学创新团队建设支持计划项目北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金

BPHR20220206BIFT GCC202302

2024

毛纺科技
中国纺织信息中心 北京毛纺织科学研究所

毛纺科技

北大核心
影响因子:0.3
ISSN:1003-1456
年,卷(期):2024.52(1)
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