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镂空重构手法在服装设计中的创新应用

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为了打破镂空工艺对材料、技术的使用界限,丰富其在服装设计中的创新应用,通过梳理服装中镂空构型的起源与发展,在镂空重构概念界定的基础上,结合已有案例归纳分析镂空重构的3类实现手法:连接点式镂空、重塑线式镂空以及剪切面式镂空.以连接点式镂空手法为例,进一步探究镂空重构手法在服装设计中的创新实践:一是镂空构型材料层面的创新,将环保理念融入服装设计,实现废弃物升级利用;二是造型表现技术层面的创新,结合立体塑形进行服装造型表现的拓展实践,并对镂空重构手法在服装设计领域的应用前景作了展望.
Innovation application of openwork refactoring methods in fashion design
In order to enrich the innovative application of openwork refactoring methods in fashion design and break the boundaries of materials and technology,by combing the origin and development of openwork configuration in clothing,on the basis of the definition of the concept of openwork configuration reconstruction,combined with the existing cases,three kinds of realization methods of openwork refactoring were summarized and analyzed,including connecting point openwork,reshaping line openwork and shearing plane openwork then on the basis of defining the concept of openwork refactoring.To further explore the innovative practice of openwork refactoring method in fashion design,the connection point openwork method was taken as an example,firstly,the innovation at the material level was realized by integrating environmental protection concepts into fashion design and upgrading waste.Secondly,the innovation at the technical level was realized through expansion experiment of modeling performance with the help of three-dimensional shaping,and the application prospect of openwork refactoring methods in the fashion design field was prospected.

openwork refactoringfashion designpoint-line-planeplastics materialthree-dimensional shaping

周洪雷、姜璇、马玉儒

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东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海 200051

东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海 200051

镂空重构 服装设计 点线面 塑料材料 立体塑形

上海市设计学Ⅳ类高峰学科资助项目中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目

DD180012232023G-08

2024

毛纺科技
中国纺织信息中心 北京毛纺织科学研究所

毛纺科技

北大核心
影响因子:0.3
ISSN:1003-1456
年,卷(期):2024.52(1)
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