基于印织工艺的图案变形问题研究
Study of pattern deformation based on printing and weaving technology
赵林 1陈逸淇 2张新月 2温润 3李娜4
作者信息
- 1. 浙江省纺织工程学会,浙江 杭州 310005
- 2. 东华大学 纺织学院,上海 201620
- 3. 东华大学 纺织学院,上海 201620;滨州魏桥国科高等技术研究院,山东 滨州 256606
- 4. 上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院,上海 201620
- 折叠
摘要
为了解决印织工艺中规整图案难控制的问题,选择不同织物组织结构与纱线密度为实验探究变量,通过在织机上进行丝网印花探究图案变形规律,并进行 4 个系列产品设计实践.结果表明:在相同纱线密度条件下,平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织纬向尺寸织造前后基本不变,但经向尺寸上,平纹变化较大(12.80%～14.50%),5 枚 3 飞缎纹图案变化较小(8.50%～9.00%),2 上 2 下斜纹变化波动范围也相对较小(10.25%～10.33%);同一纬密及组织结构下,经密为 346 根/(10 cm)时,纬向尺寸变化较大,且纬向尺寸与经向尺寸数据稳定性较差;经密为504 根/(10 cm)和583 根/(10 cm)时,纬向尺寸接近设定值且数据稳定;经向尺寸波动与经密成正相关性.通过研究与设计实践,根据不同织物组织结构及经纬密选取织缩率范围内的中间值计算出需要印花的尺寸,织造后可获得接近设定尺寸的图案,关于图案变形问题基本做到可控,并为新产品开发提供参考依据.
Abstract
In order to solve the problem that it is difficult to control the regular pattern of weaving process,four series of products are designed.Different fabric structure and yarn density were selected as experimental exploration variables,and the pattern deformation law was explored through screen printing on the loom.The results show that under the same yarn density conditions,for plain,twill,and satin weave structures,the weft dimension is basically unchanged before and after weaving,but the warp dimension,plain grain changes significantly(12.80%-14.50%).The 5/3 satin weave changes slightly(8.50%-9.00%),and the fluctuation range of 2/2 left twill is relatively small(10.25%-10.33%).Under the same weft density and fabric structure,when the warp density is 346 roots/(10 cm),the weft dimension changes greatly,and the stability of the weft and warp dimension data is poor.When the warp density is 504 roots/(10 cm)and 583 roots/(10 cm),the weft dimension is close to the set value and the data is stable.There is a positive correlation between radial dimension fluctuation and warp density.Based on the research and design practice,the size of the fabric needed to be printed is calculated by selecting the middle value in the range from the weaving shrinkage of the fabric with different structure,warp and weft density.The pattern after weaving is close to the set size.The problem of pattern deformation is basically controllable,and this study provides a reference for the development of new products.
关键词
印织工艺/图案变形/组织结构/经纱密度/织缩Key words
printing and weaving technology/pattern deformation/fabric structure/warp density/weaving shrinkage引用本文复制引用
基金项目
浙江省科协软科学研究课题(2023KXCX-KT012)
上海市哲学社会科学规划课题(2020BWY032)
教育部产学合作协同育人项目(220606429135509)
出版年
2024
NETL
NSTL
维普
万方数据