毛纺科技2024,Vol.52Issue(3) :56-62.DOI:10.19333/j.mfkj.20220903107

贵州少数民族刺绣中钉线绣工艺的运用及其比较

Comparative study on the application of couching stitch in Guizhou minorities'embroideries

马晨曲 陈洁 郭易非 杜雨翎 李林臻
毛纺科技2024,Vol.52Issue(3) :56-62.DOI:10.19333/j.mfkj.20220903107

贵州少数民族刺绣中钉线绣工艺的运用及其比较

Comparative study on the application of couching stitch in Guizhou minorities'embroideries

马晨曲 1陈洁 1郭易非 1杜雨翎 1李林臻2
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作者信息

  • 1. 东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院,上海 200051
  • 2. 上海视觉艺术学院 时尚设计学院,上海 201620
  • 折叠

摘要

为了将贵州各民族中钉线绣工艺更广泛的运用到刺绣作品中,对比分析最具代表性的水族马尾绣、舟溪苗族蚕锦绣、革一苗族梗边打籽绣、织金苗族绞线绣以及黔东南侗族盘筋绣,研究 5 种刺绣在钉线绣综线内芯材质、综线丝线的色彩、使用位置、刺绣中所结合使用的其他刺绣工艺以及在服饰中装饰的位置方面的特色,从图案审美角度鉴赏 5 种刺绣所形成的刺绣图案,分析不同刺绣在综线质感、造型风格、色彩 3 个方面的表现,总结出不同民族不同刺绣中独特的审美偏好,为研究刺绣艺术以及以刺绣艺术现代设计创新提供新的视角.

Abstract

In order to apply the couching stitch craft of the various ethnic groups in Guizhou into embroidery works more widely,the most representative ones of Shui'Horsetail Embroidery,Zhouxi Miao's Silkworm Embroidery,Geyi Miao's Stem Edge Seed Embroidery,Zhijin Miao's Strand Embroidery and Qiandongnan Dong's Coil Embroidery were compared and analyzed.The characteristics of these five kinds of embroidery in terms of thread material and color,usage,others embroideries used together,decorative positions in clothing were studied.the embroidery patterns formed from the perspective of pattern aesthetics were appreciated,the performance of different embroideries in terms of thread sense,pattern style,and color were analyzed,and the unique aesthetic preferences of different kinds of embroideries from different ethnic groups were summarized,which provides theoretical support for the study of the art of embroidery as well as the innovation of modern design with the art of embroidery.

关键词

钉线绣/刺绣/水族/苗族/侗族

Key words

couching stitch/embroidery/Shui/Miao/Dong

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基金项目

国家社会科学基金艺术学重点项目(21AG013)

出版年

2024
毛纺科技
中国纺织信息中心 北京毛纺织科学研究所

毛纺科技

北大核心
影响因子:0.3
ISSN:1003-1456
参考文献量32
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