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仿半立体几何折纸形态的针织物组织设计

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为推动针织物组织结构与表面效果的创新,以半立体几何折纸形态为研究对象,通过分析半立体形态构成原理,运用平面化设计思维将其内部结构演绎为平面形态.借助德国STOLL公司的M1 Plus花型设计软件及CMS 502 型电脑横机,实现了单面和双面仿半立体几何折纸形态织物.详细探讨了设备参数、纱线选择、组织结构设计和制版等编织工艺,同时评估了不同组织结构和纱线材质对织物表面效果的影响.研究结果表明,采用双面组织结构设计和具有高弹性、高硬度的纱线能更出色地塑造半立体几何折纸形态.此外,在设计中灵活运用织针排列、纱线材质和参数的变化,可形成不同几何折纸形态的针织物,为织物组织结构的创新设计提供了有益的参考.
Design of knitted fabric structure mimicking semi-three-dimensional geometric paper folding forms
In order to promote the innovation of knitted fabric structure and surface effect,the semi-three-dimensional geometric origami form was taken as the research object,and its internal structure was deduced into plane form by analyzing the formation principle of semi-three-dimensional form and using planarization design thinking.With the help of M1 Plus pattern design software of STOLL company and CMS 502 computer flat knitting machine,the one-side and two-side pseudo-semi-three-dimensional geometric origami fabric was realized.The machine parameters,yarn selection,structure design and plate making were discussed in detail,and the influence of different structure and yarn material on the surface effect of the fabric was evaluated.The results show that using the double-sided structure design and yarn with high elasticity and hardness can better shape the semi-three-dimensional geometric origami.In addition,the flexible use of needle arrangement,yarn material and parameter changes in the design can form different geometric origami patterns of knitted fabrics,which provides a useful reference for the innovative design of fabric structure.

semi-three-dimensional formorigami effectorganizational designknitting process

陈梦、王适

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大连工业大学 服装学院,辽宁 大连 116034

半立体形态 折纸效果 组织设计 编织工艺

2024

毛纺科技
中国纺织信息中心 北京毛纺织科学研究所

毛纺科技

北大核心
影响因子:0.3
ISSN:1003-1456
年,卷(期):2024.52(7)