首页|明清以来川滇黔地区饮食文化变迁中民族交往交流交融及其特点

明清以来川滇黔地区饮食文化变迁中民族交往交流交融及其特点

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各民族交往交流交融是民族关系和谐发展的重要保证,更是新时代铸牢中华民族共同体意识、建设中华民族共同体的重要路径.饮食文化是中华优秀传统文化的重要组成部分,凝结了大量民族交往交流交融的实践内容和价值意蕴.川滇黔地区是我国最具代表性的民族聚居区和饮食文化遗产富集区.明清以来直至当今,该地区汉族和各民族在食材运用、饮食品及其制作技艺、饮食习俗等饮食文化的多个方面进行着交流与交融,并且其途径、方式、结果和作用等方面呈现出三个显著特点,即川滇黔地区民族饮食文化交流交融的途径主要是人口迁移流动和商贸往来,其方式主要是双向交流、相互影响,其结果和作用是促进了川滇黔地区各民族饮食文化的多元与共性并存、推动了区域饮食风味的共同体川菜、滇菜、黔菜的定型与繁荣发展,进而助推了多元一体的中国饮食文化和中国菜系的丰富与兴盛,从饮食文化的角度为铸牢中华民族共同体意识、推进中华民族共同体建设作出了独特贡献.
Ethnic Communication,Interaction,and Integration in the Food Culture Change of the Sichuan-Yunnan-Guizhou Region Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties and Its Characteristics
The Sichuan-Yunnan-Guizhou re-gion is the best example of ethnic diversity and cu-linary richness in China.The Han,Tibetan,Qiang,Yi,Miao,Dai,and other ethnic groups have communicated,interacted,and integrated here,not only developing their own food cultures but also contributing to the formation and develop-ment of a regional food community.The food cul-ture in the Sichuan-Yunnan-Guizhou region has shown to be both historically deep and culturally complex,encompassing diverse categories.Since the Ming and Qing dynasties,the frequent ex-change and integration of food cultures among the ethnic groups in this region have mainly manifested in three ways:1)Ingredients:This region's ethnic groups not only introduced food ingredients such as corn,potatoes,sweet potatoes,and chili peppers origi-nally from South America,but also exchanged in-gredients among themselves,especially introducing ingredients common to Han cuisine into the high-altitude ethnic areas,such as eggplants,lettuce,pears,walnuts,and apples into e.g.the Kang-Ti-betan regions,while Sichuan salt was brought into the ethnic minority regions of Yunnan and Guizhou.This natural interchange has mutually enriched the culinary materials available in the re-gion.2)Food and Cooking Techniques:Research indicates that the tea,liquor,and various dishes in this region,as well as their production tech-niques,bear the imprint of ethnic communication,interaction,and integration.For example,during the Ming and Qing dynasties,a large amount of Pu'er tea from Yunnan was concentrated in Xiaguan of Dali before being transported to the southwest.The trade of Sichuan tea also played an important role in the interaction and communication between Han and Tibetan peoples.And the ethnic groups in this region have produced different tea beverages using tea leaves as raw materials.In terms of dishes,the exchange and integration of recipes and cooking techniques among the ethnic groups in this region have led to innovative food preparations,enriching the regional cuisine.3)As for dietary customs of the various ethnic groups,they additionally have been influenced by population mobility,commercial development,and ethnic coexistence.For instance,Han migrants who entered west of Kangding adopted Tibetan di-etary practices,such as eating Zanba and Buttered Tea,while also introducing Han festivals such as the Spring Festival and Dragon Boat Festival,cau-sing the Tibetans to accept some Han dietary cus-toms.Accounts further report that since the Ming and Qing dynasties,the multiethnic exchange and integration of food cultures in this region have shown three significant characteristics:1)The pri-mary channels for communication and integration have been population migration and commercial trade;2)the mode of this communication and in-tegration mainly has been two-way interactions and mutual influence;3)the outcome of these exchan-ges has been an increase of harmonious coexistence of diversity and commonality in the food cultures of the ethnic groups in this region.This natural dy-namic has driven the evolution and flourishing of regional cuisines—Sichuan,Yunnan,and Guizhou—further promoting a diversified unity,richness,and prosperity of Chinese food culture and Chinese cuisine.It can,therefore,be argued that this cross-pollination of cooking styles has made a unique contribution to consolidating the consciousness of the Chinese national community and building the Chinese national community.

Ming and Qing Dynasties on-wardsSichuan-Yunnan-Guizhou regionethnic communication,interaction,and integrationfood culture

杜莉、王胜鹏

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四川旅游学院川菜发展与饮食文化研究院,四川 成都 610100

明清以来 川滇黔地区 民族交往交流交融 饮食文化

2023年国家社科基金项目

23BMZ122

2024

民族学刊
西南民族大学

民族学刊

CSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:0.235
ISSN:1674-9391
年,卷(期):2024.15(5)