Study of observed wave properties in the nearshore of Beibu Gulf under the influence of typhoon
In-depth research of the coastal wave properties under extreme meteorological conditions is crucial for disaster prevention,mitigation and construction in the nearshore of Beibu Gulf.Typhoon Ma-on and Typhoon Noru,tropical cyclones with two typical tracks,struck the Beibu Gulf between August and October 2022,and presented representative samples for the study of typhoon waves in coastal waters of the Beibu Gulf.In this paper,in situ observation data of winds and waves were carefully analyzed.Different wave bulk properties and wave spectra under cyclones with different tracks and distances were revealed.Typhoon Ma-on moves northwestwards into the Beibu Gulf and sweeps the nearshore.Rapidly growing unimodal spectral peaks are observed due to the drastic change of wind seas.Eleven hours after the passing of Typhoon Ma-on,temporary bimodal spectral peaks are featured in the frequency spectra,which are probably induced by swells from offshore of the Beibu Gulf.Typhoon Noru moves towards west direction all the way,and the increases of wind speed and wave height are not as significant as those of Typhoon Ma-on,while its influence lasts longer.Additionally,the continuous occurrence of bimodal spectral peaks indicates that the swell component during Typhoon Noru accounts for more proportions than that of Typhoon Ma-on.Wave spectra of the two typhoons are both wide-band and the standardized one-dimensional spectra generally have similar shapes,peak frequencies and spectral widths,in spite of the distinct wave properties and dramatic variationduring the process of the two typhoons.The dimensionless spectra obtained by standardization with peak frequency is more reserved and consistent in shape compared with average frequency during Typhoon Ma-on and Noru,and the standardized spectra with peak frequency can be well characterized by the TMA spectra with peak enhancement factor of 1~3.3.