首页|味道、技术与现代化

味道、技术与现代化

扫码查看
"味道"作为一个日常生活范畴,勾连着生存与审美双重向度,承载着中国人的生命哲学和审美理想——相比于西方的视觉中心主义和形而上学传统,中国人对味觉的偏重展现出一种独特的在世态度.而"味-道"之间有"象",体现的更是中国人认知世界、体悟"道/理",进而经验人生万物的别种路径.重新打开"味道"话语的褶皱,在文学、哲学、美学、史学、人类学等不同维度敞开它丰富的思想空间,不仅可为中国文化话语体系的构建提供新的观察视角,同时,对"味道"这样一个常识概念的重审,也有助于我们重新发现、理解那些日常生活所积淀的恒久、坚实、朴素的道理.它们在关键时刻守护着我们,构成现代文明韧性又坚实的基座.鉴于此,《探索与争鸣》编辑部联合东南学术杂志社、泉州师范学院举办了"味与道:日常生活与中国人的生命哲学"学术研讨会,本次研讨会也是编辑部2023年起策划的"回归日常,回到常识"系列讨论第三场.李红岩教授指出,味道在存在论意义上具有"形而中"的内涵,在"道"之显现过程中扮演着"象"的角色,在认识论意义上乃视觉的延伸和证成,其过程完成了感性、知性、理性的认知链条,并成为言语、语言领域一个被广泛运用的"引导词".荣跃明研究员全面分析了有关"味道"的各种研究路径、知识系统,进而指出各种知识系统之间存在多元对立的复杂关系,因此,有关味道的内涵和知识需要整合平衡、与时俱进.彭兆荣教授从人类学角度出发,提出饮食"共需""共享""共食"三大特性,进而将中国独特的品尝民族志提炼为"和、礼、品、味、美"五大特征.贡华南教授认为,味觉优先构成了中国文化基本特征,区别于视觉思想的主客体对立,味觉思想者在"体"与"味"中与"象"(万象与心象)交融、相互感应,因此,以味觉思想为核心的中国思想善于消化,也理当承担起消化、重塑当前日常生活世界的重任.王本朝教授从诗文传统与新文学的关系入手,指出传统诗文在现代中国出现意义和趣味的分裂,其意义被新文学和新文化所批判,其趣味却被保留下来,承载着知识人日常生活的经验、感受与记忆.王才勇教授指出,中华审美理想"以味不以形",超越物之外显,进入物之内里,形成一种不留于固定物而贯通众物的感知,它没有在对物的超越中走向物的另一面(思或形而上),而是在感物本身中抛开了来自物的束缚,形成中华独有的审美文明.方笑一教授通过古代文献、诗文中大量有关味道、饮食的记载和书写,生动展现了宋人饮食品类之繁、烹饪技巧之发达及品味之精致,指出饮食书写与饮食实践共同构成宋人生活世界的"味-道",并使这"味道"臻于中华饮食史的巅峰.郑珊珊编审认为,标准化生产和视频化表达构成味道现代化的两种主要方式,当下以市场为导向并受到技术控制的味道日益同质化或"伪个性化",在反思味道与现代化之余应强化人与自然、与地方的情感联结,让日常生活的味道更加丰富和隽永.
"Wei-Dao",as a category of daily life,connects the dual dimensions of survival and aesthetics,carrying the Chinese philosophy of life and aesthetic ideals.Compared with Western visual centrism and metaphysical traditions,the Chinese people's emphasis on taste shows a unique attitude towards life.There is an"image"between"Wei"and"Dao",which reflects the Chinese people's understanding of the world,understanding of"Dao"and"Li",and then experiencing different paths of life and all things.The editorial department of"Exploration and Free Views",in collaboration with"Southeast Academic Research"and Quanzhou Normal University,held an academic seminar on"Wei and Dao:Daily Life and Chinese Philosophy of Life".This seminar is also the third in the"Return to Daily Life,Return to Common Sense"series of discussions planned by the editorial department since 2023.Professor Li Hongyan pointed out that"Wei-Dao"has the connotation of"form and center"in the ontological sense,playing the role of"image"in the manifestation process of"Dao",and in the epistemological sense,it is an extension and proof of vision.Researcher Rong Yueming pointed out that there are complex relationships of multiple opposites among various knowledge systems,so the connotation and knowledge of taste need to be integrated,balanced,and up-to-date.Professor Peng Zhaorong,has distilled China's unique taste ethnography into five major features,from an anthropological perspective.Professor Gong Huanan believes that Chinese thought,with taste as its core,is adept at digestion and should take on the responsibility of digesting and reshaping the current world of daily life.Professor Wang Benchao pointed out that traditional poetry and prose have experienced a split between meaning and interest in modern China.While their meaning has been criticized by new literature and culture,their interest has been preserved,carrying the daily experiences,feelings,and memories of intellectuals.Professor Wang Caiyong pointed out that Chinese aesthetic theory did not move towards the other side of things(thinking or metaphysics)in the transcendence of things,but rather abandoned the constraints from things in the perception of things themselves,forming a unique aesthetic civilization in China.Professor Fang Xiaoyi pointed out that dietary writing and dietary practice together constitute the"Wei-Dao"of the living world of the Song Dynasty,and make this"taste"reach the peak of Chinese dietary history.Zheng Shanshan believes that standardized production and visual expression constitute the two main ways of taste modernization.While reflecting on taste and modernization,it is necessary to strengthen the emotional connection between humans and nature,as well as with the place,to make the taste of daily life more rich and meaningful.

郑珊珊

展开 >

东南学术杂志社

2024

探索与争鸣
上海市社会科学界联合会

探索与争鸣

CSSCICHSSCD北大核心
影响因子:0.72
ISSN:1004-2229
年,卷(期):2024.(4)
  • 8