Experimental Study on Wave Propagation and Evolution Characteristics of Wave-breaking on Steep Slope
Selecting different wave incident parameters and water depths,the law of wave propagation and breaking on steep slopes was analyzed.High-speed camera was used to photograph the rolling and breaking groups,and the wave breaking shape,breaking position and wave energy evolution charac-teristics on steep slope were studied in combination with frequency spectrum analysis.The results show that the water depth is the most important factor,followed by wave height and period.The breaking process of rolling wave is the process that water mass and rolling tongue constantly evolve,expand and finally disappear,and it is the process that wave energy changes from low frequency to high frequency.The shift of high frequency to primary frequency and secondary frequency finally tends to be stable,which indicates the end of rolling and breaking.