Analysis of the Textile Sentences and Chapters of"Qing Qi Ling Hu Fei Xian Run,Ti Luo Jian Lian Su Bo Chan"in Ji-Jiu-Pian
The textile verse in the"Ji Jiu Pian"records rich information about textiles and textile techniques,such as"The green sil k and satin are exquisitely smooth and fresh,while the brocade and damask are soft and fine like pure white silk."However,due to the limitations of historical records,there are still some erroneous interpretations of this information from ancient times to t he present.This paper conducts a retrospective study using a two-dimensional verification method that combines literary research and archaeological evidence,based on interpretations from various dynasties.The research suggests that:① Both"Qi"and"Ling"are twill-woven fabrics.Structurally,"Qi"is a special type of silk fabric and an important symbol of social status during the Han Dynasty."Hu"is defined as a type of yarn in modern textile terminology.During the Han Dynasty,"Hu"referred to a wrinkled yarn that was produced by soa king tightly twisted yarn in water,causing it to shrink and form wrinkles.This type of wrinkled yarn was highly favored by the upper class."Ti"has a long history and is a rough and heavy fabric.It was gradually replaced by brocade as it developed."Su"fabric is one of the earliest types of woven fabrics.It has a similar appearance and structure to"Juan"and"Wan",but in reality,it may be an undyed plain weave fabric made of flax.②The Han Dynasty was an important period of mature development in textile craftsmanship.The techniques of silk spinning and silk reeling were essentially established during this time."Luo"is a term related to textile craftsmanship,including the production of raw silk,silk reeling,and silk weaving.These three processes are crucial in the process of silk producti on and are often depicted in Han Dynasty murals.Women were the main practitioners of silk reeling,and the techniques of silk reeling and silk weaving remained relatively unchanged throughout the Han Dynasty and subsequent periods."Lian"can refer to fabrics that have undergone special treatment,as well as the process of treating fibers to remove sericin and make them soft.There are three methods of fiber treatment:microbial degumming,ash degumming,and alkali degumming,which involve the addition of alkaline solutions to make the fabric soft and lustrous.③ The color"Qing"in modern color theory is different from its usage in ancient times.Influenced by dyeing techniques,"Qing"originally referred to blue or green pigments extracted from minerals.With the introduction of plant-based dyeing,such as using indigo and bluegrass,a darker blue-purple color was achieved.Additionally,dyeing with materials like chestnut shells and lotus seeds could produce a darker black color.Moreover,influenced by the concepts of Yin and Yang,the Five Elements,and Taoism,"Qing"was endowed with special hierarchical meanings.It became the ceremonial attire for the emperor in the Han Dynasty and was widely used in Han Dynasty textiles.However,as the popularity and maturity of"Qing"dyeing spread,it began to be used by the general population.During the Eastern Han period,it became associated with lower social status.
Ji-Jiu-Piantextile fabrictextile technologytextile color
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