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贵州黔中南地区苗族"背牌"结构、工艺与文化探析

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贵州黔中南地区苗族"背牌"以其独特的结构与精细的工艺成为一些地区苗族服饰的重要组成部分.文章在田野调查的基础上,梳理了黔中南不同地区苗族传统与现代"背牌"的外形尺寸、形制结构、工艺技法以及变迁情况,并进一步探析苗族传统"背牌"关联的传统情感意蕴以及文化事象意义的转变.研究认为黔中南不同地区苗族"背牌"作为相对独立服饰件的独特性,不同尺寸反映出手工缝制的差异性,不同结构折射出使用功能的多样性,相近工艺体现出装饰手法的普遍性.同时,由传统"背牌"的不断消逝引出"背牌"研究的紧迫性与发展的必要性.
Analysis on the Structure,Craft and Culture of Miao"back ornamentation"in the central and Southern Region of Guizhou
.The Miao"back ornamentation"in the central and southern region of Guizhou has become an important part of the Miao costume in some regions because of its unique structure and fine craftsmanship.Based on field investigation,this paper sorts out the dimensions,shapes,structures,craft techniques and changes of traditional and modern"back ornamentation"in different regions of south-central Guizhou,and further explores the traditional emotional meaning of the traditional"back ornamentation"and the transformation of cultural events''meaning associated with"back ornamentation".Therefore,it is pointed out that the uniqueness of the Miao"back ornamentation"as a relatively independent clothing piece in different regions of south-central Guizhou,different sizes reflect the difference of manual sewing,different structures reflect the diversity of functions,and similar craftsmanship reflects the universality of decorative techniques.At the same time,the continuous disappearance of the traditional"back ornamentation"leads to the urgency and development of the"back ornamentation"research.

South-Central GuizhouThe Miao"back ornamentation"StructureCraftCulture

王超群、周梦

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中央民族大学 美术学院,北京 100081

黔中南 苗族"背牌" 结构 工艺 文化

国家社科基金艺术学项目

19BG120

2024

武汉纺织大学学报
武汉纺织大学

武汉纺织大学学报

影响因子:0.316
ISSN:2095-414X
年,卷(期):2024.37(1)
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