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传统缠花云肩艺术表达与造物功能探析

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传统缠花云肩艺术表达与造物功能的探析对丰富云肩艺术研究和传承保护具有重要意义.文章以 39件清代、民国缠花云肩为研究样本,借助文献、图像分析等研究方法,对传统缠花云肩的结构、纹样、色彩、工艺等方面进行归类、分析与总结,并从历史渊源和民间藏品进行考证,探究其艺术表达和造物功能.研究认为:第一,缠花源于簪花习俗,盛行的宋代,而传统缠花云肩作为缠花诸多品类的一种,与缠花发展演变密切相关.第二,传统缠花云肩艺术特色鲜明,其结构形制种类多样、设计巧妙灵动;纹样以单个和多个组合形式较为常见,寓意吉祥;置色多而大胆,视觉语言丰富,具有雅俗互鉴的特点;工艺制作为"以缠代缘"和"缠作绣、布为底"两种方式进行.第三,受传统造物思想影响,此类云肩具有"增视""调和""添彩"和"掩暇"的造物功能.
Research on the Artistic Expression and Creation Function of Traditional Cloud-like Shawl of Chanhua
Analysis of the Artistic Expression and Creation Function of Traditional Cloud-like Shawl of Chanhua is of great significance for enriching the research and inheritance protection of Traditional Cloud-like Shawl art.In this paper,39 pieces of Traditional Chanhua Cloud-like Shawls from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China are taken as research samples,to be classified,analyzed,and summarized of their structure,patterns,colors,techniques,and other aspects of the Traditional Cloud-like Shawl of Chanhua using literature research methods,image analysis methods,and other research methods.This paper focuses it research on its historical origins and folk collections to exploring its artistic representation and creation functions.The research results suggest that:Firstly,the Chanhua craft originated from the Song Dynasty,when the custom of wearing flowers was prevalent.As one of the many categories of Chanhua,the Traditional Cloud-like Shawl of Chanhua is closely related to the development and evolution of Chanhua craftsmanship.Secondly,its artistic characteristics are distinctive,with diverse structural forms and clever and dynamic designs;the patterns are common in single and multiple combinations,symbolizing auspiciousness;the combination of colors is diverse and bold,with rich visual language and a characteristic of mutual learning between elegance and vulgarity;the production process is carried out in two ways,"using Chanhua instead of edge decoration"and"using Chanhua as embroidery and fabric as the base".Finally,influenced by traditional creative ideas,this type of Cloud-like Shawl of Chanhua also has the creation functions of increasing visual effects,harmonizing and unifying colors,adding decorative atmosphere and covering raw edges and optimizing the shape.

Chanhua craftsmanshipTraditional Cloud-like Shawl of Chanhuatrimmingartistic expressioncreation function

郭丽、卓冬冬、李亚倩

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武汉纺织大学 服装学院,湖北 武汉 430073

缠花工艺 缠花云肩 缘饰 艺术表达 造物功能

"纺织之光"中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革研究项目湖北省高等学校哲学社科重点项目教育部中华优秀传统文化传承基地(汉绣)课题

2021BKJGLX40621D049HXJD2022A08

2024

武汉纺织大学学报
武汉纺织大学

武汉纺织大学学报

影响因子:0.316
ISSN:2095-414X
年,卷(期):2024.37(1)
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