Optimization of the silk dyeing process of oak acorn by response surface method
Before the advent of synthetic dyes,natural dyes had a long history of use and were very widely used in the world.Black is one of the five normative colors in China and it has been a great demand for successive dynasties,so black natural dyes are indispensable in China's dyeing history.Oak acorn,the fruit of Quercus acutissima,is one of the most important sources of brown and black dyes in China.Its main component is tannin.Many ancient books,such as Compendium of Materia Medica,Be Capable of General Affairs,and T'ien-kung k'ai-wu,recorded the dyeing process related to oak acorn.With the advent of synthetic dyes,the use of natural dyes fell silent for a long time.However,natural dyeing has regained popularity in recent years due to contemporary consumer interest in environmentally friendly printing and dyeing,as well as the discovery of the many benefits of using natural dyes derived from plants and animals.To explore a faster,more efficient and scientific dyeing process of oak acorn,response surface method(RSM)was used to optimize the oak acorn dyeing process,with ferrous sulfate as the mordant,K/S value and Integ value as the response values.In this study,the factors influencing the dyeing process,such as dyeing temperature,dye concentration,mordanting temperature,mordant concentration,dyeing time,mordanting time,and pH,were investigated by using the Plackett-Berman experiment to screen the significant influencing factors on oak acorn dyeing.Factors with P-values higher than 0.05 were considered as insignificant.Based on the P-value,the factor of dyeing temperature was found to be the most influential factor on the color depth of oak acorn dyeing,followed by dye concentration and mordanting temperature.After the significant factors were clarified,the response surface method(RSM)was carried out.Then,the response surface results were obtained and the response surface model was analyzed,based on which the interaction between oak acorn dyeing results and each dyeing factor was analyzed.Finally,the optimal oak acorn dyeing process was obtained.Based on the above,the optimization model of the oak acorn dyeing process was established and the differences of the obtained response surface models of K/S value and Integ value were compared.It is found that the optimal oak acorn dyeing process requires a dyeing temperature of 86.5℃,a dye concentration of 200%(o.w.f),and a mordanting temperature of 53.5℃.The dyeing results show that increasing the dye concentration and dyeing temperature can improve the K/S and Integ values of acorn-dyed silk,but the mordanting temperature should not exceed 60℃.The results of RSM experiments show that the Integ value is more suitable as the response value of natural dye oak acorn dyeing,and can more accurately reflect the change of color depth.The validation results are in line with the predicted values,which indicates that the model is reasonable in design,stable and reliable.In addition,the color fastness results of silk show that the dyed silk fabrics have good resistance to washing,rubbing and sunlight,which are all above grade 3.The experiments show that RSM provides a simple and reliable method to optimize the oak acorn dyeing process.It also provides reference for the subsequent deconstruction of the dyeing methods recorded in ancient documents.In addition,it is found from the analysis of the dye composition in this study that the up-dyeing components are ellagic acid.Therefore,the experimental design of this study may have important reference significance for the process optimization of tannin-based natural dyes containing ellagic acid.
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