摘要
针对服装洗涤环节在服装生命周期中对环境影响较大的问题,提出了一种减少服装洗涤频率的模块化设计方法.首先划分服装为固定模块和可选模块,并确定其控制属性;然后采用问卷调研的方法,对用户洗涤行为进行调研;使用交叉分析法进行数据分析,探究不同品类下款式设计、色彩印花、面料和污渍分布情况对服装高洗涤频率的影响,以及不同洗涤原因下较为适合的设计方法.根据问卷调研结果,提出可拆卸设计和运用功能性模块的服装模块化设计方法.可拆卸设计包含扣合系统、拉链设计和系带 3 种连接方式;功能性模块是在改变固定模块的控制属性,使用辅料或冲孔镂空使服装具有透气性或可调节性,或直接使用抗菌抗污、防水和单向疏水的功能性材料,以达到减少洗涤频率的目的.文章分析了适用于不同部位的模块设计连接方法,丰富服装模块化设计的研究内容,为可持续服装设计提供创新思路.
Abstract
The production,use,and recycling stages in the lifecycle of clothing significantly impact the environment.According to a lifecycle assessment by the organization WRAP in 2016,the environmental impact of washing behaviors during the use phase of clothing is greater than that of production and recycling.Changing design methods to influence the frequency of clothing washing plays a critical role in extending the lifespan of garments and reducing the environmental impact of the clothing industry.Clothing can be divided into two types of modules:fixed and optional ones,each with its control properties.A modular design method aimed at reducing the frequency of washing has been proposed to decrease resource consumption and pollution throughout the garment's lifecycle.This not only helps to improve the sustainability of clothing but also offers consumers a variety of choices.An initial survey was conducted to investigate the daily washing habits of clothing users.The questionnaire consisted of three parts:basic information,research on clothing washing frequency,and audience evaluation.The reliability and validity of the questionnaire were analyzed by using SPSS,yielding a Cronbach's alpha coefficient of 0.802 and a KMO value of 0.747,demonstrating the reliability of the data.Cross-analysis results indicate that tight,fitted,and longer styles,as well as light colors such as white,beige,light blue,pink,and black,and the use of cotton and polyester fabrics,lead to a higher frequency of washing.Tops are frequently washed due to easily soiled collars and cuffs,while bottoms are washed due to stains on the hem and crotch areas.The survey results reveal numerous factors affecting the washing frequency of clothing.This paper focuses on garment style design,excluding color and fabric factors,and summarizes two modular design directions to reduce washing frequency:detachable design and functional modules.Detachable design focuses on the connection methods between modules,namely utilizing accessories and process modules to achieve partial detachment,thereby avoiding the need to wash the entire garment.Considering convenience,integration,and comfort,connections such as buttons,zippers,and ties were used,and appropriate connection methods for specific parts of the garment were explored.Functional modules change the properties of fixed modules by incorporating designs with specific features,such as breathable hollow structures and adjustable designs,or by adding optional modules with self-cleaning capabilities,to reduce the need for washing.These innovations not only lessen the environmental burden but enhance the practicality and sustainability of clothing.
基金项目
教育部人文社会教育科学研究青年基金项目(19YJC760096)
国家科技期刊平台
NSTL
万方数据