云冈研究2022,Vol.2Issue(4) :70-77.DOI:10.19970/j.cnki.ISSN 2096-9708.2022.04.010

朝服袴褶废止年初考

Textual Research on the Time of Abolishing the Court Uniforms"Kuxi"

周翔
云冈研究2022,Vol.2Issue(4) :70-77.DOI:10.19970/j.cnki.ISSN 2096-9708.2022.04.010

朝服袴褶废止年初考

Textual Research on the Time of Abolishing the Court Uniforms"Kuxi"

周翔1
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作者信息

  • 1. 山西大同大学云冈学学院,山西大同 037009
  • 折叠

摘要

袴褶初兴于汉末三国时期,盛行于两晋南北朝,经过不断规范、发展,在北魏、隋及唐代前期成为朝服.安史之乱后,唐膳部郎中归崇敬上疏称袴褶"事不师古",遂将其从朝服系统中废除.史料记载的废除袴褶时间有三说,即代宗宝应元年(762年)、代宗广德元年(763年)、德宗贞元十五年(799年),以往学者研究论著中对三种记载皆有引用.本文试通过梳理历史文献和考古资料,初步考证归崇敬上疏废除朝服袴褶的时间应为广德元年末,并简论时人以袴褶为"服妖"的历史渊源.

Abstract

The term"Kuxi"(袴褶)first appeared in the late Han dynasty and the Three Kingdoms Period and was popular in Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties.Through continuous standardization and development,Kuxi became one of court uniforms in the Northern Wei,Sui and Tang Dynasties.After the An Shi's Rebellion,an official from the Ministry of Rites named Gui Chongjing addressed the emperor,saying that Kuxi did not conform to the traditional ritual syste,so it was no longer used as official uniform.Concerning the time when Kuxi was abolished,three statements were clearly recorded in ancient documents,which were respectively 762,763 and 799.In previous studies,different scholars have accepted these three different views.This article clarifies the early development context of Kuxi by integrating historical documents and archaeological data,proves that Gui Chongjing proposed to abolish it at the end of763,and briefly explains the historical reason why it was regarded as an ominous omen.

关键词

袴褶/朝服/归崇敬/服妖

Key words

Kuxi/court uniform/Gui Chongjing/ominous omen

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基金项目

国家社会科学基金特别委托项目(21@ZH029)

出版年

2022
云冈研究
山西大同大学

云冈研究

ISSN:2096-9708
参考文献量29
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