明代男子蟒衣的样式与演变——以明代肖像画为参考
On the Style and Evolution of Men's Mang Yi in the Ming Dynasty——Based on Visual Evidence Provided by Portraits of Ming Dynasty
白瑶瑶1
作者信息
摘要
明代肖像画中的蟒衣形制、搭配多样,其纹饰分布主要有蟒补、云肩通袖膝襕及无分区三种.蟒衣服色以红、青、绿为主,纹饰颜色多为金、红、黄、绿、白、青等.明代男子蟒衣的发展演变可分为三个阶段:第一,发展阶段(洪武—正统),还有元代服饰特色,蟒身修长,神态威严;第二,成熟阶段(正统—万历),往阔袖宽身方向发展,纹饰样式呈程式化;第三,繁荣阶段(万历—崇祯),样式越发多样,纹饰活泼、繁复,向个性化发展.
Abstract
There are various shapes of mang yi in portraits of the Ming dynasty,and there are three ways of distributing mang yi,including the"embroidered python pattern",the"shoulder-cloud sleeve pattern",and non-partitioned pattern.Mang yi mainly came in red,blue,and green,and were primarily decorated in gold,red,yellow,green,white,and blue.The evolution of the mang yi may be roughly divided into three periods.The first period may be described as one of development(Hongwu to Zhengtong reigns):mang yi still display the characteristics of Yuan costumes while their design is slender and dignified.Then comes a period of maturity(Zhengtong to Wanli reigns):the sleeves and body widen,and patterns become increasingly stylised.The last period is one of prosperity(Wanli to Chongzhen reigns):styles became more diverse,decorations are lively and complex,and there appears a general tendency towards individualization.
关键词
明代/蟒衣/蟒袍/肖像画Key words
Ming dynasty/Mang yi/Python robe/Portraits引用本文复制引用
基金项目
国家社会科学基金(2019)(19BKG013)
出版年
2024
NETL
NSTL
万方数据