摘要
为实现锦纶无胆透气面料的轻量化,探讨染色方式、定形工艺、轧光条件等对超细锦纶面料防绒、透气、强力、手感和布面风格的影响.结果表明,超细锦纶无胆透气面料达到防绒效果的染整工艺为:采用经轴染色,在温度为170 ℃、车速40 m/min下定形,在压力为370 N、温度为160℃、车速为30 m/min条件下轧光,可以达到GB/T 14272-2021《羽绒服装》优等品(≤40根)、撕破强力≥7 N、接缝性能≤4 mm、透气性能≥2.0 mm/s要求,突破了无胆羽绒面料的质量瓶颈,节约了面料,降低了羽绒衣生产成本.
Abstract
In order to achieve lightweight technology for nylon gallbladder cloth free anti-drilling fabric,the effects of dyeing methods,thermal-setting processes,and calendering conditions on the anti-feather,breathability,strength,hand feeling,and fabric style of nylon gallbladder cloth free anti-drilling fabric were explored.The results show that the dyeing and finishing process for the nylon gallbladder cloth free anti-drilling fabric to achieve anti-drilling effect is to use warp beam dyeing,setting at temperature of 170 ℃,speed of 40 m/min,and calendering at a pressure of 370 N,temperature of 160 ℃,and speed of 30 m/min.It can meet the requirements of GB/T 14272-2021"down filled garment"high-class products(≤40 pieces),tear strength ≥ 7 N,seam performance ≤4 mm,and breathability≥2.0 mm/s,which breaks through the weight bottleneck of down fabric,effectively saves fab-rics and reduces production costs.